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madoverlord:climbing-2men [2016/05/13 22:12]
madoverlord
madoverlord:climbing-2men [2016/10/04 14:42]
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-==== 2 Men and a Mountain (Climbing) ==== 
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-10/14/2000 marked a new development in our climbing education, the first "James and 
-Daddy Only" expedition, to Pilot Mountain. ​ We tried a few new routes, some of which 
-were a little too difficult for James, but he had a lot of fun practicing setting 
-protection in the rock.  Dad rigged up a system where he was always on a toprope, 
-but the other end of the rope was also connected to James' harness as a lead rope. 
-The top rope was belayed through a GriGri device for safety, and Dad could thus 
-belay James via the toprope, through the lead rope (ATC on his harness), or both. 
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-James put in about 8 or 9 pieces of protection, including a very sketchy 
-one that worked loose as he climbed past it - a good learning experience for him. 
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-<​html><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00064.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00064.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00065.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00065.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00069.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00069.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00070.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00070.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00071.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00071.jpg"></​a></​html>​ 
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-We ended up setting two anchors during the day.  The first used some existing bolts with 
-a sling around a large boulder as additional backup. ​ The second was a traditional 
-anchor with 3 components; a sling around a tree and 2 cams in cracks. ​ We tooks some 
-snapshots of this second anchor as we were taking it down to give you an idea of 
-how these things work.  The cords or slings from the anchor points come together 
-in a figure-8 knot and then they all are connected to the carabiners that the rope 
-runs through. ​ This builds redundancy into the system; for it to fail, the two cords 
-and sling below the figure-8 would have to break, or both carabiners, or all 3 anchor/​sling 
-combinations would have to either break or pop out.  But, so long as at least 1 anchor/​sling above 
-the figure 8 + 1 loop below it + 1 carabiner remains intact, the anchor doesn'​t fail. 
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-In order to balance the lengths of the slings and cords (so that the loops that 
-go through the carabiners would be balanced and all parts of the anchor were under load), 
-I had to tie figure-8 knots (and 1 figure-8 on a bight) into them.  In retrospect I could 
-have neatened things up a bit by readjusting the cords to put the double-fisherman knots 
-that make them into loops away from the point where they all come together. 
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-Note the extra loose red sling; that was girth-hitched to another tree, and that's 
-what I clipped into before I went near the edge of the rock.  James and I never go near 
-a cliff face without being clipped into something extra. 
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-<​html><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00073.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00073.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00074.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00074.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00075.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00075.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00076.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00076.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00077.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00077.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00078.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00078.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00079.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00079.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00080.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00080.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00081.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00081.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00082.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00082.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00083.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00083.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00084.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00084.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00085.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00085.jpg"></​a><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00086.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00086.jpg"></​a></​html>​ 
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-Finally, it's becoming obvious to James and I, but not, apparently, to Natsumi, that we 
-need lots more equipment. ​ I mean, isn't it obvious that what we've got is almost nothing? 
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-<​html><​a href="​http://​media.madoverlord.com/​Lg/​DSC000/​DSC00088.JPG"​ target="​_blank"><​img src="​http:/​wiki.animeigo.com/​MO/​Sm/​DSC000/​DSC00088.jpg"></​a></​html>​ 
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